Friday, 4 September 2015

A Successfull Summer- By Flo Tilley



This summer, like the rest, has flashed by and has been busy and successful with my climbing. I started it off with 2 weeks in Magic Wood, Switzerland. Sarah chauffeured me and Naomi, driving us from derby to Bodhi Camping, covering a total of 1600 miles. What a Hero. 

Washing facilities

For those who have not been, it is, as the names suggests, a wood in a valley with a mystical kind of feel. The floor is a lattice of roots and meandering paths, with boulders that spring up as you walk through. 
Naomi enjoying the wood
The campsite is about a 5/ 10 minute walk through the wood to the closet boulder, Bruno block; best if you’re climbing higher grades. To really get stuck into some of the best problems, in my opinion, are further along in the wood. For me, some of the most memorable climbs I did were Grit de Luxe 7b, a climb right on the river side, involving a mantle to start, leading to more crimpy moves to the top. Hohenrausch 7b+, a crimpy face with  big committing moves.


Grit de Luxe 7b photo credit: Sarah Pashley
Exclusive 7b Photo credit: Naomi Tilley
Exclusive 7b was another great climb, a more powerful problem, with a tricky start and draining last few moves. I also tried Intermezzo 7c and Foxy Lady 8a both crimpy, technical problems, both of which didn't feel so far from my ability which felt pretty good!
Supper Crack 6c Photo credit: Sarah Pashley

After a couple of days back home I headed up to Kilnsey, to spend time with my Grandparents, who live handily close to the crag, fill up on some of my Gran’s cake and of course, get a few days in of climbing. My aim was to do The Ashes 7C+ which I had had a play on a couple months before. After working the crux; a large dynamic move to two eyes and falling frustratingly near the top on my red point attempts multiple times, I got the tick on my 2nd day of working, 3 days in total. Pretty Psyched!

The start of The Ashes is to the right of the second tree and finishes at  the break before the roof. 
Straight from Kilnsey I headed down south, helped Naomi to move into her new student cottage in Falmouth, had some fun on some easy Trad and tried to surf (tried the important word there).

After surfing selfie

All this fitted in nicely to go and compete at the Deep Water Solo competition in Exeter. Like last year it was a fantastic, well organised event with a great atmosphere. On the Saturday I got away with only getting wet once, managing to top all 3 of my problems. Unfortunately on Sunday the weather was not on our side and for my first two climbs in the semis, it rained and due to the wet conditions slipped off fairly low on my second climb, after topping the first. Despite this, after an hours brake to dry thing up, we were back climbing and I had a good attempt on my last climb of the weekend. I finished 9th overall.

 The final was a great watch, it was speed format. 6 finalist raced up the climb, and then the 3 fastest went through to a super final in which they would do the climb again, deciding podium position on their final speed time. This format worked especially well for the general public watching, the aim of the game was obvious, how fast could they go!

I am now back to the reality of life- back to 6th form to finish my last year of school. Scary stuff! However I have lots of training for up coming comps, including the junior lead cup and the BLCC’s, to take my mind off the scary prospect of exams and adult life!
Zilliman 7a


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